Karibu!

Welcome to my blog about my life in Tanzania. My name is Joseph Landry and I am a 22 year old Canadian living in the semi-rural village of Iringa on a 10 month internship. After I graduated with a B.Sc. from the University of Northern British Columbia in beautiful Prince George, BC, I began applying for the Canadian International Development Agency's International Youth Internship Program. I ended up getting a position with a great organization named Emmanuel International as a Primary Health Care Worker in the Amani Training Centre.

So I hope that you enjoy this blog and let me know if you have any questions or comments!

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Village Life

The last couple of days we had the opportunity to visit our placements for the first time. I will be living and working at Amani CTC, which is a training center for (mostly) young Africans from the surrounding area. While our visit there was nice and I am excited to get into my placement, I am sure the majority of posts will be coming from there after I have a better understanding of the center and its mandate. For now I want to tell you about our much more exciting parlay to the village of Usolanga, which is where the girls will be stationed.

Usolanga is about 2 hours northwest from Iringa along a relatively well maintained dirt road (in the dry season at least). The road snakes out of town and is dotted with increasingly rural townships; this is notable because the further one gets from the village center the more excited people are to see muzungu (white people). Eventually everyone along the road stops to wave, and children shriek in delight with a simple wave back to them. We wanted to leave town as early as possible, but inevitably there were errands to run; this included picking up 10 bags of cement, one box of medicine, a jerry can full of diesel, some chapitas for lunch and a 17 year old local student. This being Africa, things take much longer then they would back home, due to various reasons depending on the circumstances. We actually made good time, leaving town around 9:30 in the morning (or 3:30 Swahili time, I can explain this later).

The beginning of our journey was spent trying to communicate with the young man we had picked up, primarily to practice our Swahili. We have only had 5 days of lessons now, so the conversation did not get to far; I gave up after trying to draw him a bear (this is while driving on a bumpy gravel road, and I am no artist to begin with) and then learning from Andrew that there is no word in Swahili for bear. The young man had no idea what I was talking about so eventually we just settled on the fact that it was like a lion with no mane. I apologize to all the bear lovers out there but my limited language skills could not do the majestic beast justice for this lad.

The countryside was gorgeous as always, and in certain areas it is truly what one thinks of when they think “Africa”. In other places, however, the landscape transformed into barren desert – it seems like there is no way anything could live there. Andrew told us that to the contrary, when the rains begin, everything turns a lush green and looks completely different. Our journey was stopped suddenly when Masai tribesmen were in the middle of herding their cows across the road. Unfortunately for us this was one rich chief, and the parade of ungulates extended as far as the eye can see on either side. Think of it as an African train crossing. However, as you well know, cows are not as fast as trains - eventually our patience wore thin and we squeaked through the line in a small gap, only displacing one or two beasts out of formation.

Along the way I managed to get some reading in, which makes it sounds like a smooth ride but the others were quite astonished that I could accomplish such a feat given the coarse terrain. Eventually we arrived at the village, and I have to say that it is absolutely amazing that people live here. The sun beats down mercilessly, drying up everything under its wrath. There are approximately 500 houses, with the majority being made of mud “bricks” and the roofs thatched with straw, with a typical family residence being no larger then an averaged sized bedroom in Canada. Water is a 3 or 4 kilometer jaunt to the river, but our organization has taken the initiative to equip the interns’ house with a rain water harvesting system. In a few days during the rainy season, enough water can be collected to last months. Hopefully this idea will catch on and with proper funding be implemented for the locals also. As it now stands they do benefit from the one tank because once it is full it comes out an overflow pipe which is available to the village people.

We got to tour the dispensary (clinic) that the girls will be working at, and it is rather basic, but absolutely essential for the people of Usolanga due to the lack of facilities in the village. We also took a walking tour of the village and met various people, all of whom were extremely kind and hospitable. As we made our way among the homes, we were accompanied by a gradually increasing trail of children, eager to examine our every move with wonder. Apparently we were quite the novelty, which makes sense because it is quite rare to have wazungu in the village, especially four at once. By the end of our walk we had built up a crowd of nearly 30 children of all ages, whom we tried to engage in conversation, but they mostly liked to repeat what we said multiple times until we said something else. Andrew eventually told them that we were leaving, so they scampered off in different directions. We did not end leaving right away, however, and while sitting on the steps of the girls house I began spotting little heads popping up behind trees, in doorways, and around corners. Within a short time we were surrounded again so I decided to humor them with my camera. I got them together for a picture with us and counted down: moja (1), mbili (2), tatu (3), dizi (banana)! (They say banana here instead of cheese). I then showed them their picture and had about 60 hands poking the screen saying “mimi” which (coincidently?) means me. After this we tried to explain snow to them, but to no avail (the closest we got was “cold rain that stays on the ground”); for some reason I don’t think they quite understood.

The ride home was quite an adventure in itself, and all I can say is that by the end of it the landcruiser (a SUV type vehicle) was completely packed with 4 muzungu (us), 6 Tanzanians, 2 suitcases, a jerry can, a box of bottled water, a few backpacks, a broken down motorcycle, and a live goat named Hubert. Yes, this was all inside the vehicle, and no I am not joking. The goat was a wedding gift, and the motorcycle and 2 extra Tanzanians were a good deed – the head chair (mayor) of Usolanga had been catching a ride to Iringa on his friends motorcycle when they got a puncture and the rim of the back wheel imploded on itself, leaving the spokes gnarled and broken; we provided a ride to the repair shop. Hubert was not too pleased with these tight conditions, and he let us know with his ear piercing baby-like wail each time we hit a bump. It was okay though, even though I had the most cramped spot, I had a good view out the back window of the scenery. After many stopovers and meeting some extended family of our passengers we finally got home and went out for a tasty meal of burgers and chips at the Hasty Tasty Too. There we met a couple of American students studying at the University of Dar es Saalam, and they may join us for volleyball tomorrow. That’s all for now, please feel free to leave comments, I really enjoy reading them!

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Pictures!

I finally managed to upload some pictures from my time here so far. Click on the "pictures" link to the right to have a look.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Bad joke?

An American, a Canadian, and a Briton are climbing up a mountain in Africa… sounds like the start of a bad joke doesn’t it? Well actually that was just my Saturday afternoon here in Iringa. Andrew, Paul and I decided to go for a hike this past weekend. The main difference between hiking in Canada versus Tanzania is the idea of a trail. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not that there are not trails here; it’s just that they are few and far between, and they don’t tend to be continuous. You will find a nice set path and follow it for some time, but then it just disappears and you are left to the mercy of the cacti and thorn bushes. The astonishing thing is that the point we hiked to has a large concrete wall and bench that was built just this past March. I do not want to imagine the fellows who had to carry all the concrete, let alone the gallons and gallons of water from the river valley. To do this without forming a path seemed very strange to us. Nonetheless the view was staggering, with gorgeous ridges and valleys rising and collapsing all around us, dotted of course by granite boulders of all sizes formed through volcanic activity. Being there under the late afternoon sun brought a whispered voice of “I am actually here” to the depths my being. After having dreamt about experiencing the majestic landscape of Africa for the last couple of years, looking at this postcard perfect view, with the hot sun beating my brow and the cool breeze mercifully lifting drops of perspiration from my skin, I could not help but feel a sense of purpose in this world.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Phone Number

Just to let you know I have a mobile phone now, if anyone wants to chat just dial 011 255 76 344 9758 from Canada (a calling card is the best thing to use). I can also send and recieve text messages very inexpensively so feel free to contact me! Tz is 10 hours ahead of BC time.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Finally here!

So this is my first entry from Tanzania; after a whirlwind 48 hours of traveling we finally made it to our new home, Iringa. The “we” consists of Jen and Sacha, the two other interns, and me. Andrew and Miriam are our in-country reps, and have done an amazing job of helping us transition into life in Tanzania. They are both fluent in Swahili, which has been crucial in the first few days of trying to get set up here. They also have a 3 month old son named Ben, who is a joy to have around.

The minute we stepped off the plane the main noticeable difference was the humidity - in Dar es Salaam, the commercial capital of Tz, it is very hot and humid, as one would expect from an African coastal city. After waiting 30 minutes in the wrong line the airport staff informed us that we could go through the residents’ entrance, since we are officially (temporary) residents. Andrew kindly met us with the original copies of our permits and we quickly found all of our luggage with minimal difficulty and made our way out to the city. The first stop was a supermarket to pick up a few things for the journey, as well as some diapers and a toaster for our house. We then went to the bus station and waited for the bus to Iringa for a couple hours. At this point we were all exhausted and in a daze from the long plane rides and multiple time zone changes, making the whole thing feel like a dream.

The bus ride from Dar to Iringa was one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced, which may sound a bit strange, but you would be astounded by the things that you see driving through a country like this. First of all, there are thousands of people just out on the streets – for example, in Canada in a normal city you might see 10-20 people at any given time in a mid sized city walking around the roads (depending of course where you are). Here, it seems like everyone has something to do on the street, and at any time you would probably see 100+ people out on a main road, either selling, buying, eating, reading, conversing, building things, fixing things…. you get the idea. Also while you in the bus, people will come up to the window when it stops and try to sell you items. Some of these are practical like water, snacks and newspapers, but there are also people selling everything from eggs, to fake watches, to green beans, to toys. I can just imagine someone heading on an 8 hour bus ride thinking, man I hope I can get some eggs on the way.

Another interesting aspect of the ride was that it seems like there are innumerable districts (I made this up, they are probably called something else) that specialize in one item, where all the shops along either side of the highway contain only one type of product. So on the way we saw the luggage district, the wooden bed district, the cement brick district, the soda pop district etc. Anyhow, it seemed odd to me, I don’t know if you will share the same sentiments. Along the way we also passed through a game park, and therefore I was fortunate enough to see monkeys, gazelles, zebra, giraffe and elephants all in the first day of being here. It was absolutely astounding to be looking at these creatures that once had only been on TV right here in person, and we were the only people on the bus who even cared! Actually I think they were laughing at us a bit for getting all excited and pointing at the animals, but then I think I would too (and do at the tourists in Jasper and Banff) who get so excited over moose, bears, caribou and elk.

Anyhow we finally arrived in Iringa, and Miriam met us at the bus station (which is actually a bit of a misnomer, as there isn’t really a “station” but rather just a spot where the buses stop). Just after dark, and again, there were people everywhere out on the street. And of course everyone wants to help the wazungu (plural form of foreigner/white person, root is from “one who wanders,” singular is muzungu) with their bags, but luckily Andrew just throws out a bit of Swahili and they leave us be. That is not to say that they are rude or pushy at all, they genuinely want to help. So far I have met quite a number of people and everyone is incredibly nice. They love our attempts at Swahili, and are very
encouraging in general. I am very exited to be able to hold a con… (haha, sorry but I have to interrupt myself and tell you that in mid sentence I looked over and there was a crazy jumping spider that just landed on my shoulder – ahhh, such is life in Africa) anyhow, I am excited to hold a conversation with the people in their language, as they are extremely enjoyable and great company even with my limited knowledge of Kiswahili.

We were brought to our house which is not far from the main area of town, and given the tour. Now I knew that my expectations would be inaccurate in many ways but I did not expect to be living in a 6 bedroom, 3 (or 4? Not sure…) bathroom house with at least 15 foot ceilings. That said, it is not what you would think of as nice in Canada, as everything is quite old and construction is not quite the same quality here. Let me just say that if you had this house in Canada it would be quite immaculate, but here it is rather basic. Nonetheless, if any of you want to come and visit there is more then enough room and some very comfy beds waiting, honestly just let me know. Anyhow, we each have our own room, mine with my own bathroom, and the girls share a bathroom, but we all share a shower. The shower is supposed to be hot but so far nothing but cold water has come out of it, so let me emphasize to you – do not take your hot showers for granted! It is amazing how quickly you can shower when it is ice cold at 7 in the morning; at least it wakes you up. I should mention that we are only living here for a month until we finish language school, then we will move to our placements which will be much more basic and rural. This house will serve as our home base for weekends. I am going to a training center on the outskirts of town to develop and teach their first health curriculum, but first I have to learn Swahili.

The food so far has been very good, very much similar to what we would eat in Canada with a few differences, but that is because we have been eating at Andrew and Miriam’s house, and they cook western food mostly (however, tonight we will have rice and beans which is quite Tanzanian). The market is bustling all day, and you can get pretty much anything that you need in town, it is actually much larger and more developed then I had anticipated. Tomorrow we begin language school, with our mwalima (teacher) Betty, whom we met today. She has a “classroom” set up in her garden, which is really open air 8 by 8 hut built out of trees. She also has the cutest 4 year old boy named Marky, who was very shy yet interested in us, and I anticipate he will be my friend by the end of it. Anyhow, thanks for reading if you got this far; there is so much to write about as I have only touched on a fraction of the amazing new things I have seen and done already here. This has been such an eye opener, I think that everyone should come and see how people live in other parts of the world if they have the opportunity.

Until next time!

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Less than a week...

Well since I last wrote a great deal has happened; my working permit came in, my plane tickets got booked, and basically everything has fallen into place for me to hop over the pond to my new home in Tanzania. I was expecting to be there already but as things worked out we are not heading over until the 16th of September. My personality deals with such unexpected occurrences quite well, as I always try and focus on the good that comes out of a situation (and this is a key skill for someone working internationally - as time will tell).

One such good was the wedding of my cousin Breanne(once removed? I don't follow all the technical stuff so she is my cousin as far as I am concerned) to Colin, which I was fortunate enough to attend this past Saturday. It was a great time, with the ceremony taking place in a country field, complete with hay bails, carts, and even a working shotgun (don't worry, it wasn't loaded, although I wouldn't put it past the owner, Dustin). They even towed all of the guests out behind tractors to the seating area. Everything went great, and the reception hall was beautifully decorated - and the bathroom had almost every personal hygiene product you could think of, right down to denture cream and Q-tips (don't ask me who is using this stuff at a wedding). Anyways I am getting off track with the details here and basically just wanted to say that it was an excellent time, and I got to see many family members and say goodbye before I leave to Tz.

Also, I posted the pictures of my Mount Robson hiking trip, you should be able to access them via the link on the right that says "pictures". It seems to be working but please someone let me know if they are having trouble getting to the Facebook page that stores them. I think that this will be the most viable way for me to post pictures once I am in Africa. As you may see it was an incredible trip, with great weather and company (Thanks to my Uncle Roger, Auntie Vicki and Cousin Kyle! Okay and Jenna was there too :D...). Well now I am going to be packing for the next 5 days in a frenzy so the next post will be from Iringa, Tz. Hopefully the flights go well and our luggage makes it along with us. Until next time!